By Jim Herson
Somewhat surprisingly the Jeff and Jim show got off to a slow start due to a poor heat conducting french toast pan. It was next to impossible to get a decent uniform texture.
Got to the base of the Direct North Face of Sentinel around 9 -- a new free climb highly 'recommended' by Chan and Greg. Focusing on our core competencies I led the climb while Jeff ran the color commentary.
I'll give the DNF one thing. It does have the single worse pitch (P9) in the valley. Wet dirty mossy off-fists to exfoliating creaking flakes with a bit of bushwhacking. Luckily the rope was too short to reach the anchors since I couldn't budge it anyway. Ended up untying from the rope and stringing together my remaining friend slings to reach the anchor. Then I single strand rapped 1/3 of the way down to a point where, using full body hauling technique, I could give Jeff a belay. The other 10 pitches were similar.
The views on top were excellent and the biscottis were quite tasty. Overall a highly recommended climb.
PS. Actually there was some worthwhile, though dirty, climbing. And it can't be beat for Valley funk.
By Greg Murphy
Yes indeed, it is one fabulous route in an outstanding location. Chan Harrell and I did the second ascent (we think) a few years ago and found it to be engaging and outstanding. Very trad, very rad and highly recommended for those interested in gaining a well-rounded Valley resume. Up there with A-man, Power Point and the Crucifix. Detailed beta available upon request.
Home / Trip Reports